To the Editor:
The popularity of indoor climbing has increased as a recreational activity and competitive event in many countries. International competitions have been held in Iran, including the Fajr Master Cup competition 2012, the Asian Youth Championship 2001, and the Asian Youth Climbing Sports Championship 2012. With the increasing popularity of this sport, it is likely that more climbers will be consulting physicians with climbing-related injuries.
1
Many researchers have demonstrated minor injury risks for indoor climbing in comparison with other sports.2
, 3
, 4
The aim of this study was to evaluate the risk of injury at a high-end Iranian indoor rock climbing competition to analyze injury patterns and to suggest means to prevent injuries.
Methods
One of us (S.A.H.) served as an assistant on the medical team at the 2010 Open National Rock Climbing Championships in Iran. All of the reported injuries were recorded in the medical injury form of the International Federation of Sport Climbing Medical Commission (2009),
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and 2 questions were added concerning preexisting injuries while climbing or falling. Preexisting injuries and overuse problems that had previously been treated were not included.An injury was defined as any physical complaint sustained by a participant during climbing. This included ascent and descent of the climb.
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To compare this study with other sports, the injury risk was calculated per 1000 hours of participation in the championship, and the time of climbing performance (climbing time) per each climber included warm-up and cooldown. Performance time was considered 2 hours, which is according to the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) Medicine Commission standards.6
Descriptive statistics were applied to report the injuries.
Results
There were 220 male rock climbers from 26 provinces of Iran who took part in 3 disciplines of lead climbing (n = 134), speed climbing (n = 50), and bouldering (n = 100). Some of the climbers participated in 2 disciplines.
Climbing grade of lead climbing was 8.66 Metric Scale (semifinals) and 9.33 Metric Scale (finals).
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Twenty-eight climbers reached the semifinal. Climbing grade of bouldering competitions were in the range of 8 to 9.33 Metric Scale. Twenty climbers participated in the finals of bouldering competitions. The overall climbing time was 332 competition days, equaling 664 hours.Fifteen acute medical problems occurred during the lead climbing (n = 5) and bouldering (n = 10) championships. There were no injuries in speed climbing. Fifty-three percent of injuries were as a result of falling (n = 8). Twenty percent (n = 3) were serious injuries that prevented the participant from continuing the contest and required transport to the hospital (elbow fracture [n = 2] and shin capillary fracture [n = 1]). Lower back muscle strains occurred during particular boulder problems (n = 4). Strains of deltoid muscles (n = 2) occurred while attempting to reach a hold. One wrist sprain occurred during a fall onto an outstretched hand during the bouldering championship. One ankle sprain occurred during a lead fall. One nosebleed, nail fracture, and skin bruise occurred, which were attributed to contact with the wall or rope (Table).
TableInjuries at the Iranian National Championships in rock climbing
| Part of body | Injury | No | Discipline | Injury occurring on |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Head and face | ||||
| Nose | Nosebleed | 2 | Lead, bouldering | Falling (contact with rope), falling |
| Upper limb | ||||
| Shoulder (deltoid) | Strain | 2 | Lead, bouldering | Climbing, climbing |
| Elbow | Fracture | 2 | Lead, bouldering | Falling, falling |
| Wrist | Sprain | 1 | Bouldering | Falling |
| Finger | Nail fracture | 1 | Bouldering | Climbing |
| Trunk | ||||
| Lower back | Strain | 4 | Bouldering | Climbing |
| Scapula | Skin bruise | 1 | Lead | Falling |
| Lower limb | ||||
| Shin | Capillary fracture | 1 | Bouldering | Falling |
| Ankle | Sprain | 1 | Lead | Falling |
All injured climbers sustained only 1 injury, and the risk was calculated as 22.59 injuries per 1000 hours.
Discussion
This study was aimed at examining the injury risk of high-end Iranian rock climbers to analyze injury patterns and suggest means to prevent injury. Our calculated injury risk of 22.59 per 1000 hours is a higher risk than the findings of Schoffl and Kupper,
2
Backe et al,3
and Schoffel et al.4
In accordance with the rule of the International Climbing Council, based on the medical statement of the Medical Commission of the UIAA, the bouldering competition area should be fully covered by mattresses. They must be fixed firmly and close to each other without space between them. Increased safety in lead climbing is achieved with the presence of 1 belayer and 1 backup belayer, plus a third person supporting the climber on the lower part of the climb. Therefore the risk of a ground-fall injury is minimized.
There were no injuries in speed climbing, likely because top ropes were used.
The results of our study suggest certain recommendations to minimize injury risk for indoor climbers. The number of belayers should be based on the rules of the UIAA. Locations should be designated for warming up and should include appropriate equipment to achieve this goal. Proper belaying technique can help prevent injuries by preventing climbers from striking the wall. Emphasis on fall training and ankle stabilization trainings are already part of the normal training routine in some countries and may improve safety.
References
- Injury in traditional and sport rock climbing.Wilderness Environ Med. 1998; 9: 2-7
- Injuries at the 2005 World Championships in Rock Climbing.Wilderness Environ Med. 2006; 17: 187-190
- Rock climbing injury rates and associated risk factors in a general climbing population.Scand J Med Sci Sports. 2009; 19: 850-856
- Evaluation of injury and fatality risk in rock and ice climbing.Sports Med. 2010; 40: 657-679
- Final Report IFSC MedCom Kiev 2010.(Accessed August 2012)
- The UIAA Medical Commission injury classification for mountaineering and climbing sports.Wilderness Environ Med. 2011; 22: 46-51
- Statement competition climbing.(Accessed July 2006)
Article info
Publication history
Published online: January 25, 2013
Identification
Copyright
© 2013 Wilderness Medical Society. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
